Taramasalata is having a moment. The ancient dip of frugal origins – fish eggs and old bread – is suddenly on smart menus everywhere as though the food world is catching up with the 2016 obsession with Millennial Pink. Many supermarket versions tend towards the lurid end of the spectrum but the cool places serve it with the barest blush if any.

Made like a mayonnaise with copious emulsified oil, this luxurious, fluffy addition to the meze table usually includes a bland starch such as bread or potatoes. The star ingredient, tarama, is made from the salted eggs of carp, cod or mullet. Ravaged stocks can rebuild now Greek Easter is over, taramasalata being one of the few fun parts of the Lenten diet. The Easter miracle nobody talks about is how they get something non-dairy so creamy.

10 William Street Stephanie Clifford-Smith

10 William St

The whipped bottarga and pretzel (AUD $18) has been rusted onto the menu of this weeny, crowded bar since chef Dan Pepperell was pulsing the blender and although he’s moved on, this, we hope will stay forever. A warm seed encrusted knot of bread is an inventive accompaniment to the pale puree. A grating of bottarga on top ramps up the umami and the bread soaks up the fine olive oil pooling in the smokey dip’s well. On a menu with plenty to divert the hungry diner, this is a must. 

Address: 10 William Street, Paddington, NSW. Telephone +61 2 9360 3310

The Apollo Restaurant Stephanie Clifford-Smith

The Apollo

There’s a lovely citrus acidity to the taramasalata (AUD $12) at this buzzing Potts Point joint. Served in a little glass pot with smokily charred flatbread its silken texture contrasts nicely with the salmon roe that pops gently against the tongue. Sit at the bar and try it with a chilled Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko from Santorini or bring a crowd, grab a table and have it as part of ‘The Full Greek’ feasting option. 

Address: 44 Macleay Street, Potts Point, NSW. Telephone: +61 2 8354 0888

Medusa Greek Taverna Stephanie Clifford-Smith

Medusa Greek Taverna

Piped bouzouki music and the proximity to Darling Harbour might dull expectations – there’s a distinct tourist vibe here. It’s not helped by service so fast it screams a feed ’em and flip ‘em business model. But you have to love the way low expectations can also be flipped. Yes, the taramasalata (AUD $9) is the most pinkly mainstream we tried, but it was housemade and good with the grated white onion making itself known subtly in flavour and texture. Do also order the deep fried calamari with aioli – this is how it should be done.  

Address: 2 Market Street, Sydney, NSW. Telephone: +61 2 9267 0799