Three sweet soufflés
Stephanie Clifford-Smith in Food Become a member to view this article
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Curiosity and tardiness are the twin enemies of a successful soufflé.
Mess with that formula by opening the oven door for a quick peek or faffing with the garnish before serving and doom is inevitable.This dish which is surrounded with so much mystique is really just a simple matter of gently combining a flavoured sauce – cheese, strawberry, salmon, whatever – with stiffly beaten egg whites, baking it undisturbed and serving it promptly. Mess with that formula by opening the oven door for a quick peek or faffing with the garnish before serving and doom is inevitable. This type of soufflé was invented in the late 18th century and was mentioned in Louis Ude’s The French Cook in 1813 as promising ‘a new method of giving good and extremely cheap fashionable suppers at routs and soirées.’
Franca Brasserie Stephanie Clifford-Smith
Franca Brasserie
If you hate the way dining out has lost its sense of occasion and long for a venue that justifies dressing up then this glam addition to the Potts Point dining scene could be for you. Sure you’ll be admitted, even welcomed, in crumpled linen and sneakers but you’ll feel right at home sliding into a green velvet banquette in something plucked from the smart end of the wardrobe. You’ll also coordinate with the posh passionfruit soufflé with almond craquelin and popcorn ice cream (AUD $18), a delicious exercise in textural mastery.
Address: 81 Macleay Street, Potts Point, Sydney. Telephone: +61 2 9167 2921
Felix Stephanie Clifford-Smith
Felix
Little wonder this most classic of French bistros should have not one, but two soufflés on its menu – a Gruyère one for entree (AUD $23) and a mandarin and lime one (AUD $22) for dessert. The nutty cheese one is the more serviceable, but equally good, twice-cooked variety but we were here for the traditionally executed dessert one. Naturally, for this you must wait because it won’t wait for you. The tightrope walk between citrus tang and sweetness is as successful with the soufflé as it is with the goat cheese crème fraîche sorbet on the side and the lime notes in the Loire Coteaux du Layon made with botrytised chenin blanc (AUD $18/170).
Address: 2 Ash Street, Sydney. Telephone: +61 2 9114 7303
Regatta Stephanie Clifford-Smith
Regatta Rose Bay
You might detect the fragrance of the passionfruit soufflé (AUD $18) just before it lands in its little copper saucepan, a ball of luxurious ice cream rippled with white chocolate its simple accompaniment. Yes of course soufflés are meant to be light but this one is almost, literally, inhalable it’s so full of air. It’s astonishing it manages to carry the flavour so well. By all means, engage with the sommelier but as his knowledge of the dessert wines was theoretical, the advice faltered. The soufflé needs something sweeter than the 2016 Pressing Matters R69 Riesling.
Address: 594 New South Head Road, Rose Bay. Telephone: +61 2 9327 6561