The cool spring evening of Wednesday, 16th September brought together wine lovers, industry professionals, and curious enthusiasts to Cumulus Inc. in Melbourne’s Flinders Lane for an unforgettable evening of finely crafted wine and food which held some heartwarming surprises even for the organisers!

Co-hosted by the legendary Huon Hooke and myself (Stephen Wong), the dinner was deliberately positioned not as a rivalry but rather, a celebration of great Australian and New Zealand wine.

As guests settled into their seats, Huon rose to welcome everyone with his characteristic warmth and wisdom. He took a moment to share the story behind The Real Review. After the essential housekeeping, Huon drew attention to a special guest in the room. Lilian Carter, the talented winemaker behind E.J. McDougall Wines (whose work would feature later in the evening) was acknowledged with warm applause.

The evening began with a symphony in white: four distinct expressions, each telling its own story of place and vintage; Chateau Pato Semillon 2023 from the Hunter Valley; Catalina Sounds Sound of White Sauvignon Blanc 2023 from Marlborough; Naked Run Place in Time Sevenhill Riesling 2020 from the Clare Valley; and Framingham Limited Edition F-Series Old Vine Riesling 2021 also Marlborough.

Huon and I discussed each wine, reflecting on our contrasting perspectives; my love of technical details complementing Huon’s deft storytelling. Country loaf sourdough with cultured butter arrived alongside an artful parade of starters: tuna tartare with goats curd, green pea, and mint; Culatello de Parma balanced by guindilla peppers; and radicchio with creamy stracciatella, toasted hazelnuts, and blackcurrant leaf.

The second bracket belonged entirely to Chardonnay, that most expressive and divisive of varieties. Ocean Eight Vineyards Aylward Chardonnay 2022 from the Mornington Peninsula led the charge, followed by Corofin Folium Vineyard Chardonnay 2022 from the Southern Valleys of Marlborough, E.J. McDougall Wines Chardonnay 2024 from Margaret River, and finishing with Neudorf’s iconic wine, the Home Block Moutere Chardonnay 2023 from Nelson, New Zealand.

With winemaker Lilian Carter present in the room, we were treated to her personal insight on the E.J. McDougall 2024. Barramundi accompanied this flight, accompanied by grilled lettuce, fennel, and parsley sauce creating a delicate, herbaceous backdrop. Huon and I discussed winemaking philosophy (always relevant with chardonnay) and the specific trend towards vineyard recognition in both Australia and New Zealand for fine wine.

By the third bracket, the evening had developed an extra layer of energy. Felton Road Cornish Point Pinot Noir 2023 from Bannockburn, Central Otago kicked off the flight, followed by the classic elegance of Ata Rangi Pinot Noir 2021 from Martinborough. Then came the Paramoor Syrah 2023 from Heathcote and Smidge Wines ‘S’ Smitch Shiraz 2021 from the Barossa Valley, showcasing the diversity of Australian red winemaking.

Hearty portions of grass-fed sirloin arrived with mountain pepper sauce, roast potatoes enriched with confit garlic and capers, and mixed leaves dressed simply with sherry vinaigrette. I took this opportunity to lure Huon into revealing his favourite Shiraz regions out of Australia’s diverse range of over 40 distinct regional styles.

The final course offered a moment of pure indulgence: All Saints Estate Grand Muscadelle NV from Rutherglen, a gloriously sticky, amber-hued fortified wine that speaks of Australia’s deep winemaking heritage. It paired with a carefully curated cheese selection which promised to be the perfect full stop to an exceptional evening—but there was one more surprise in store.

Unbenownst to us Hakim Halim, co-owner of Ripe Cheese, which has become a beloved presence at the Queen Victoria Market, was present in the audience and is the vendor of the two delicious cheeses served. He treated guests to an impromptu deep-dive into artisan Australian cheese. His passion for cheese brought the evening to close with Puck-like frivolity and revelry; a fitting parallel to the evening’s celebration of wine, and a reminder that Australia’s artisan food culture extends far beyond the vineyard.

As guests lingered over the last drops and final morsels of cheese, we hope that we have helped create a lasting memory—one that would linger long after the last glass was emptied and the doors of Cumulus Inc. closed for the night. A memory of an evening when great wine, great food, great cheese, and great company came together in neighbourly communion.