Ryan Ponsford of Entropy Wines. Wine Gippsland

There’s an energising rumble in Gippsland that’s attracted a swathe of young producers over the last decade, flocking to its green pastures. The rolling hills are flourished by spirit and beer makers, butter and cheese makers, even Chianina cattle (the famed bony white Tuscan cow). Today, we’re shining a spotlight on the winemakers.

Affordability and accessibility to land have been key, as well as the potential to make great wine. Phillip Jones paved the way for Gippsland in the 1980s when he established Bass Phillip, and a cult following ensued. But it takes more than one producer to make a region.

Drive a couple of hours south of Melbourne, and you’ll hit the start of Gippsland. You could drive for another three hours and still be in Gippsland. It’s vast: 40,000 square kilometres from the south coastline of Victoria, east of Mornington Peninsula, reaching northward into Kosciuszko National Park. Yet just 200ha are under vine, a mere .0046% of the Gippsland zone. Given its behemoth size, the growing conditions aren’t analogous, which has given rise to three recognised sub-regions: West Gippsland, South Gippsland and East Gippsland.

West Gippsland

In the cool rolling hills of Warragul, part of the Baw Baw Shire on red volcanic soils is where you’ll find Patrick Sullivan and William Downie. Bill’s penchant for pinot is evident in his charismatic wines while Pat serves up a brilliant set of modern Aussie chardonnays.

Lucy and Alysha from Allevare Wines have chosen west Gippsland as their base. While they make mighty fine local chardonnay and pinot, they also source grapes from further afield in Victoria, which suits their exploratory nature. Their combined life experiences bring a refreshing perspective to their wines.

Entropy farm two vineyards on the opposite ends of the Baw Baw shire. Ryan Ponsford left Melbourne and his photography job behind to make wine. His Warragul range of wines are diverse and charismatic and run a range of grapes: sauvignon blanc semillon, savagnin, pinot gris, pinot noir, cabernet and syrah.

South Gippsland

There’s a hive of wineries in South Gippsland gathered around Leongatha. The coastal influence is more at play here, while the Strzelecki Ranges that divide west and south Gippsland can play havoc with weather conditions, depending on where you are.

Dirty Three – Marcus Satchell cut his teeth in Gippsland while working for Phillip Jones at Bass Phillip. Born in Wonthaggi, he set up a label together with his wife Lisa Sartori. Dirty Three has one of the region’s most welcoming cellar doors. You might even catch Marcus playing the saxophone—a skill he picked up in a previous life in the band Cranky.

Fleet – Lisa and Justin Jenkins sharpened their palates and wine talk while working hospitality in Melbourne for over a decade. This daring and brave couple have raised both a young family and a farm just outside Leongatha named Ever Reve. An inquisitive couple, they work with both Gippsland and other Victorian fruit. Now that their vineyards are coming of age, more focus is turning to their local turf.

The Wine Farm is a Demeter-certified biodynamic producer established by Neil and Anna Hawkins in 2011. Not afraid of hard work, or of following a less-trodden path, they produce wines that speak of purity and texture and include a riesling, syrah, gewürztraminer, pinot gris, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and pinot noir. One of their vineyards neighbours Bass Phillip.

East Gippsland

Venturing approximately 200km east towards Bairnsdale is where you’re in East Gippsland. Rainfall can be a little unpredictable and droughts threaten. It has a few more established wineries, and also a few brave-hearted newcomers.

Lightfoot and Sons is now in the hands of second-generation Tom and Rob Lightfoot. The wines are never short on flavour and are an ever-flowing font of great value. While I shouldn’t pick favourites, I’d never say no to their chardonnay.

Xavier Goodridge (Xavier Wines) leases vineyards in Maffra, halfway between west and east Gippsland. Before moving to Gippsland, he worked at Bress in Harcourt for many years. His deft hands craft pinots of nuance and detail that both intrigue and excite.