Marlborough still crushed 410,291 tonnes of fruit in 2025. Marlborough Wine (te Pa Wines)

As summer approaches, the new vintage of fresh, crisp sauvignon blanc sets sail from wineries to glasses all over the world. For a time, Marlborough actually held a literal yacht race from Waikawa Marina (in the Marlborough Sounds) across Te Moana-o-Raukawa/Cook Strait to land in Te Whanganui-a-Tara/Wellington Harbour.

The ‘new vintage’ of sauvignon blanc is perfectly timed for warmer weather, typically seeing a cool fermentation in stainless steel tanks with a short élevage before going into bottle (some producers incorporate small amounts of wild-fermented or barrel-fermented wine in their classic bottlings).

These young-release wines start entering the market as early as August though most target a September or October release ahead of the busy summer season. It is usually the first chance we get to see how a vintage tastes as this tank-fermented sauvignon blanc is among the earliest released wine from any vintage (increasingly, rosé is competing for that same space, and there are also limited-releases of ‘nouveau’-style reds from more New Wave producers).

When it comes to sauvignon blanc in New Zealand, it is impossible not to default to Marlborough. After all, 90% of the sauvignon blanc in the country is planted in this region and sauvignon represents nearly 90% of New Zealand’s total export volume (for the year to July 2025). Some readers may already be aware of a few statistics about the 2025 vintage but for those who are not, I will outline the key points below.

First of all, let’s address the elephant in the room: the potential volume of 2025 in Marlborough (especially for sauvignon blanc) was huge. This is a result of a combination of climatic and economic factors. The region’s plantings increased by 24% to 29,000 ha from 2020 to 2025 (with more growth yet to be realised as further plantings come onstream). Add to that, almost perfect flowering conditions which resulted in a record-setting potential crop, steady growing conditions without weather complications, and the yield estimates were climbing as the season progressed.

With wineries holding high inventory levels of sauvignon blanc going into harvest and looming oversupply with the volatile global trade conditions, caps were set to reduce how much wineries would take from their growers. For some winegrowers, this was managed earlier through green harvesting and yield management, but for others, fruit had to be left on the vine unpicked to reduce the harvested tonnage.

Even with conservative estimates of between 15 and 20% of fruit being left unpicked (some industry commentators suggest the number was higher), Marlborough still crushed 410,291 tonnes of fruit in 2025: only 1% less than the region’s record-highest crush in 2022 of 414,649 tonnes. Now this is where it gets complicated.

The vintage was able to produce beautiful fruit, but that quality potential was not realised if yields were too high. There is no clear pattern to discern which vineyards carried very high yields and which controlled their yields early enough to benefit from the growing season. Ultimately, it boils down to actual taste and, as they say, the proof is in the pudding. The 2025 sauvignon blancs from Marlborough are very variable and there is a wider disparity of quality between producers than in 2024 for instance—a vintage which one producer in Marlborough summed up amusingly by saying “You had to really **** things up in 2024 to make a bad sauv”.

So, based purely on the early-release Marlborough sauvignon blancs which have been assessed, how does 2025 taste? As a broad generalisation, it tastes archetypal and textbook, for better or for worse. The wines are aromatic and up-front with that classic combination of herbaceous and gooseberry. By contrast 2024 tastes more concentrated on the whole with richer mid-palate density and floral nuances rather than herbaceousness (which may not suit some sauvignon drinkers). 2025 has more classic flavours.

Many of the wines I saw also changed significantly in the glass, losing that aromatic intensity over time, suggesting that those who prize those aromas will prefer them on the younger side (i.e within the next eight to 10 months). Some wines exhibit a bit more discernible sweetness on the finish, too, either because they have a bit less stuffing or because winemakers are using some sugar to give palate weight and emphasise the fruit flavours. Conversely, the lighter and more austere styles often exhibited a distinct salinity which is likely a function of acidity, phenolics and volatile sulfur compounds (part of the varietal expression) being more evident when fruit concentration is lighter.

This is not to suggest that there aren’t good wines in 2025. The better of these early-released examples highlight the ripeness of the season through juicy, perfumed fruit, some even tipping over to tropical notes and passionfruit (which admittedly can be a yeast thing) alongside crisp, green notes which are not overtly vegetal.

There is a whole cadre of producers who have taken advantage of 2025’s less dominant vintage character (compared to 2024, at least) to allow their sites to express themselves with very careful and sensitive use of winemaking influences. There are a number of innately complex, mineral and well-balanced wines which capture the imagination and taste distinctly different than their peers without overtly displaying winemaking artifice.

The best of the 2025s tasted so far also have finesse and perfume rather than raw power and concentration, which can suit those looking for more aromatic and immediate wines.

Lastly, as is clear from the recent ‘grand’ sauvignon tasting in Marlborough of about 100 new releases, the wines which are aged for more time in the winery, be it in tank, oak (usually neutral) or other vessel, are well worth waiting for. Releases of these styles from 2024 and 2023 were show-stopping in quality—although granted, these are ‘reserve’ level wines which warrant longer élevage. We can expect some of the best 2025s to be released according to the same schedule, although they will show more overt winemaking than the fresh, crisp, young-release wines.

In summary, 2025 is a vintage where careful choice matters as quality is variable across the region. There are plenty of easy-drinking immediate-enjoyment wines but serious producers have also crafted a number of wines with site expression and transparency, taking advantage of a less-overpowering vintage character in 2025. The best wines may yet to be released.

Saint Émilion, producer of great wines on the right bank in Bordeaux. Wikimedia Commons

For all the doom and gloom one hears about Bordeaux today, the region is still producing great wine, and one of the greatest vintages in recent years is 2022.

Langton’s, which has evolved over the years into one of Australia’s top importers of fine wine, has bought big on the ‘22s (160 separate wines, I’m told) and conducted some promotional tastings recently to showcase a selection of the wines—mostly red, but also a few dry whites and sauternes.

Its people describe Langton’s as the pre-eminent luxury wine business in the country.

Langtons’ Michael Anderson, head of auctions, introduced the tasting saying 2022 was a vintage of extremes, shaped by unprecedented heat and drought, despite which the finest châteaux defied expectations and produced deeply coloured, fruit-forward, powerfully structured red wines.

“Hot years can have high alcohol, jammy wines that don’t last very long. But freshness is the word often used (for the 2022s). It flies in the face of what previous hot vintages have delivered in the past. Bordeaux experienced 45 days of 30-degree heat.”

There were four heatwaves between June and August, although one winemaker said it was more like one long heatwave with four extreme spikes. Two redeeming factors seem to be that the nights were relatively cool and the heat build-up was gradual, so it didn’t shock the vines so much as a sudden heat-spike might. The result was the wines have freshness and the alcohols were not as high as in some earlier hot vintages, such as 2003. Of the 18 red wines I tasted at Langton’s, most were 14 or 14.5% alcohol, the exceptions being Lafite-Rothschild, Cantemerle and Belgrave (all 13.5%)— according to their labels.

Lafite was the star, but so it should be at AUD $1,950 a bottle. It was the only First Growth presented. What does a wine that expensive taste like?

“An exquisite nose: great fruit and oak and lovely harmony, a superb perfume of enormous detail and charm. Oak barely makes a statement, and the alcohol strength is modest. Almost understated among the big boys of the vintage. Superb balance, line and length: a study in elegance.”

My second scoring wine was Pontet-Canet, which is generally credited as being the best value of the top châteaux these days. It’s AUD $330, and I for one would prefer to buy six bottles of this than one Lafite for the money.

Cos d’Estournel (AUD $690) was also a favourite.

Figeac (AUD $850) was also highly rated, although it was massively oaky and will I suspect need many years in the cellar to come into balance: it certainly has the concentration and structure to age well.

Château Gloria is one of the best value buys, at AUD $135.

Château Corbin, of St Emilion (AUD $120) was another good value buy and will drink much earlier than the top wines. Belgrave and Cantemerle (approx. AUD $90 each) are also good values. I also loved Gazin (AUD $235), d’Issan (AUD $215), Palmer (AUD $1,050), Léoville-Poyferré (AUD $345), and Smith-Haut-Lafitte ($450).

Did I buy any?

You bet. A small cache of Pontet-Canet, Gloria and Gazin, in the hope I live long enough to see them at their best!

Alexia’s Jane Cooper (left) and Lesley Reidy. Alexia Wines

Last week, we published an article discussing the changes seen in the Wairarapa and listed a dozen producers outside of the established great addresses who deserved your attention. The first six were detailed in that piece. Here, we continue our exploration of exciting Wairarapa wine names to seek out with the second half of the dozen.

Alexia

Established by winemaker Jane Cooper and Lesley Reidy, Alexia is an urban winery in Greytown. Named after Jane’s grandmother, the label celebrates matriarchal heritage and community connection. Alexia works with local growers and makes everything in-house, from crush to bottling.

Alexia’s range is thoughtful and modern, featuring a diverse selection of varieties including grüner veltliner, chenin blanc and gamay, excellent hand-made méthode traditionnelle, and several different interpretations of pinot noir (including white). These are wines that showcase varietal character while pushing the region into a New Wave yet traditionally-grounded style that will find broad appeal.

Their Blanc de Blancs Méthode Traditionnelle Vintage 2021 is a must-try and those who love aromatic, expressive chardonnay will also love the Goose Neck Chardonnay 2024.

The Good Way

A small family-run label in Martinborough on the Dry River Flats, The Good Way was formerly known as Stad_ko Wines, a very small label they’ve gradually built a name for through festivals and word of mouth. The 3 ha of vines are known as Arapai, which is te reo Māori for The Good Way.

Arapai exists on what was the first sheep station in New Zealand. Hayley Bartholomaeus and Anton Stadniczenko are the young couple who started Stad_ko Wines in 2019. Anton is a well-known viticulturist in the Wairarapa, looking after the Martinborough vineyards for Craggy Range, and acknowledges his father Robert for the two decade-old vineyard they now farm.

Hayley grew up on Château Yaldara Estate before moving to Aotearoa. Both The Good Way’s Chardonnay and Pinot Noir 2024 are worth seeking out.

Grava

Founded in 2014 by Alistair Gardner and Karla Falloon, Grava takes its name from the gravelly alluvial soils of their Martinborough vineyard and nods to Alistair’s years of winemaking in Spain.

The fruit is certified organic by BioGro and Alistair still spends the northern hemisphere vintage in Spain making wine. They are a big part of the local community and have provided fruit for producers like Halite, Huntress and the new albariño project Rías. One of the fascinating things which they engage in is recording multi-sensory expressions of their wine. Head over to the Grava website to discover more.

If you encounter either the Pinot Noir 2024 or Sauvignon Blanc 2022, make a point to try them: they’re forward-looking wines with a sophisticated appeal.

Alastair Gardiner of Grava Wines and furry friend. Grava Wines

Oraterra

This is likely to be a new name for many readers but there is significant history to uncover. It was created after Dry River’s sale in 2022, when Wilco Lam and his team (six in total) moved to a new company formed by the purchase of On Giants Shoulders.

This site was initially planted by Jack McCreanor in 1986 and prior to On Giants Shoulders, it supplied the pinot noir fruit for Larry McKenna’s version of Escarpment Pahi (that name is now used for a different vineyard in Te Muna). Wilco has also added another vineyard since 2022, called La Belle Vie. Sam Rouse moved to Australia and young winemaker Tom de Hamel joined the team.

They farm organically with biodynamic treatments, bottling the wine in an unusually shaped bottle which catches the eye. They debuted with 2023 and managed to craft admirable wines from that challenging vintage, sympathetic to the lightness and delicacy of the season while also giving a glimpse into what the future holds. Both the Chardonnay 2023 and Pinot Noir 2023 are worth trying. This is definitely a winery to have on the radar.

Poppies

Poppies is probably not a new name for those who have visited Martinborough before. Poppy and Shayne Hammond are from an even earlier period of Dry River’s history than Wilco Lam, and set up Poppies in 2012 as a small cellar door tasting room with its now-famous vineyard platters.

Their wines are classic Martinborough in style, concentrated, structured and built to age. The small quantities were sold exclusively on site for most of the brand’s history, with small lots made available recently to other channels. They added a vineyard and winery in 2016, helping bolster their production to supply more customers. The couple have some fascinating ecological practices in their vineyards, including the use of wool ground cover.

Both Pinot Noir 2024 and Syrah 2024 are highly recommended young wines and as one would expect, both need time to unfurl, as does a rather excellent sauvignon blanc semillon blend.

Schubert

Kai Schubert and Marion Deimling have been in the region for decades, arriving to set up Schubert Wines in 1998 from their home country, Germany, via several other winegrowing countries.

They planted their vineyard in East Taratahi in 1999 and 2000, which supplies the majority of the fruit for their wines. There is also a small established vineyard in Martinborough township. The farming here is fully certified organic and the style is of power, density and intensity.

Pinot noir is the passion, and though in the past some of the wines have been more brutalist and wide-shouldered, the more recent releases—and in particular the 2024s—have really lifted another notch in elegance and finesse. They made no Block B or Marion’s in 2023 or 2022 due to the vintage conditions. The 2024 Chardonnay is also excellent: modern, restrained and flinty and they are one of the few producers of syrah in the region.

What unites these producers is their small-scale philosophy: making wines which are low in volume but high in creativity, originality and authenticity. Together, they highlight Wairarapa’s future as a region defined not by mass production, but by distinctive voices crafting wines that speak sensitively of care for land and community.

Ryan Ponsford of Entropy Wines. Wine Gippsland

There’s an energising rumble in Gippsland that’s attracted a swathe of young producers over the last decade, flocking to its green pastures. The rolling hills are flourished by spirit and beer makers, butter and cheese makers, even Chianina cattle (the famed bony white Tuscan cow). Today, we’re shining a spotlight on the winemakers.

Affordability and accessibility to land have been key, as well as the potential to make great wine. Phillip Jones paved the way for Gippsland in the 1980s when he established Bass Phillip, and a cult following ensued. But it takes more than one producer to make a region.

Drive a couple of hours south of Melbourne, and you’ll hit the start of Gippsland. You could drive for another three hours and still be in Gippsland. It’s vast: 40,000 square kilometres from the south coastline of Victoria, east of Mornington Peninsula, reaching northward into Kosciuszko National Park. Yet just 200ha are under vine, a mere .0046% of the Gippsland zone. Given its behemoth size, the growing conditions aren’t analogous, which has given rise to three recognised sub-regions: West Gippsland, South Gippsland and East Gippsland.

West Gippsland

In the cool rolling hills of Warragul, part of the Baw Baw Shire on red volcanic soils is where you’ll find Patrick Sullivan and William Downie. Bill’s penchant for pinot is evident in his charismatic wines while Pat serves up a brilliant set of modern Aussie chardonnays.

Lucy and Alysha from Allevare Wines have chosen west Gippsland as their base. While they make mighty fine local chardonnay and pinot, they also source grapes from further afield in Victoria, which suits their exploratory nature. Their combined life experiences bring a refreshing perspective to their wines.

Entropy farm two vineyards on the opposite ends of the Baw Baw shire. Ryan Ponsford left Melbourne and his photography job behind to make wine. His Warragul range of wines are diverse and charismatic and run a range of grapes: sauvignon blanc semillon, savagnin, pinot gris, pinot noir, cabernet and syrah.

South Gippsland

There’s a hive of wineries in South Gippsland gathered around Leongatha. The coastal influence is more at play here, while the Strzelecki Ranges that divide west and south Gippsland can play havoc with weather conditions, depending on where you are.

Dirty Three – Marcus Satchell cut his teeth in Gippsland while working for Phillip Jones at Bass Phillip. Born in Wonthaggi, he set up a label together with his wife Lisa Sartori. Dirty Three has one of the region’s most welcoming cellar doors. You might even catch Marcus playing the saxophone—a skill he picked up in a previous life in the band Cranky.

Fleet – Lisa and Justin Jenkins sharpened their palates and wine talk while working hospitality in Melbourne for over a decade. This daring and brave couple have raised both a young family and a farm just outside Leongatha named Ever Reve. An inquisitive couple, they work with both Gippsland and other Victorian fruit. Now that their vineyards are coming of age, more focus is turning to their local turf.

The Wine Farm is a Demeter-certified biodynamic producer established by Neil and Anna Hawkins in 2011. Not afraid of hard work, or of following a less-trodden path, they produce wines that speak of purity and texture and include a riesling, syrah, gewürztraminer, pinot gris, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and pinot noir. One of their vineyards neighbours Bass Phillip.

East Gippsland

Venturing approximately 200km east towards Bairnsdale is where you’re in East Gippsland. Rainfall can be a little unpredictable and droughts threaten. It has a few more established wineries, and also a few brave-hearted newcomers.

Lightfoot and Sons is now in the hands of second-generation Tom and Rob Lightfoot. The wines are never short on flavour and are an ever-flowing font of great value. While I shouldn’t pick favourites, I’d never say no to their chardonnay.

Xavier Goodridge (Xavier Wines) leases vineyards in Maffra, halfway between west and east Gippsland. Before moving to Gippsland, he worked at Bress in Harcourt for many years. His deft hands craft pinots of nuance and detail that both intrigue and excite.

Geographically, Gippsland is a vast area of land. Wine Gippsland

Gippsland may well be Australian wine’s best kept secret. It has no fewer than 33 wineries open for cellar door sales and tastings, according to ‘Eat, Drink, Gippsland’, the region’s tourist handbook. It’s possibly a secret that Melburnians are keeping to themselves, though, as it is just a convenient hour or two’s drive east of the Victorian capital, and is rich in food and wine experiences.

The food and drinks businesses there—wineries as well as breweries and distilleries—are all boutique or even micro-boutique sized, so you won’t find their products widely distributed. In-person visiting is essential.

During a recent visit I drove from Warragul south to Leongatha and was struck by the beauty of the rolling, folding, verdant hills, with many high vantage points offering panoramic views of the surrounding country. Pockets of forest added to the feeling of serenity and lushness. The cool damp climate is good for truffles as well as grapes, and I visited my cousin David’s truffle farm near Neerim South, from which he produces Baw Baw Truffles. Terence Ling, partner in The Real Review and a noted cook and gastronome, pronounced Baw Baw Truffles the best he had ever tasted in Australia.

In addition to the 33 mentioned above, here are several more wine producers which aren’t included in the tourist booklet, because they don’t have cellar doors. These include some of the most notable names, such as Bass Phillip, Patrick Sullivan, William Downie, Entropy and Xavier.

Geographically, Gippsland is a vast area of land that extends from just east of the outer Melbourne environs right to the sharp point that is the easternmost extremity of Victoria, near Mallacoota and the NSW border. But, for wine purposes, it extends from outer Melbourne to Lakes Entrance and can be carved into five subregions: South, Central, East and West Gippsland, and Phillip Island.

South Gippsland: This is where most of the vinous activity is located. South Gippsland centres on Leongatha, but extends east to Fish Creek, west to Bass River and south to the coast at Inverloch. Wineries include Bass Phillip, Bellvale, Dirty Three, Fleet, and Gippsland Wine Co.

Central Gippsland: embraces Traralgon, Maffra and Briagolong; wineries include Narkoojee and Glenmaggie.

East Gippsland: the main centres are Bairnsdale and Lakes Entrance; wineries include Nicholson River Winery and Lightfoot Wines.

West Gippsland: extends from Pakenham in outer Melbourne to Warragul. Few wineries, including Cannibal Creek.

Phillip Island—self-explanatory, and home to only two wineries, Purple Hen and Phillip Island Winery.

Gippsland is cool-climate viticulture, but it’s cool climate with a difference. It’s one of the few places in Australia that has year-round rainfall. This means that vines can be grown without irrigation and that the grapes ripen in a relatively humid environment, which has implications for the flavours and chemical balance of the grapes. They retain their acidity and their aromatic components better than in dry climates.

Not surprisingly, the region specialises in cool-climate grape varieties, mainly chardonnay, pinot noir, riesling, sauvignon blanc, gewürztraminer, including sparkling wines, although shiraz, merlot and the cabernets can be ripened in some places.

Patrick Sullivan in the vineyard. Patrick Sullivan Wines

Bass Phillip is clearly Gippsland’s most recognised winery: its Reserve Pinot Noir has been described as the best pinot noir in Australia, while its Premium and Estate bottlings of pinot noir can also be stellar. The wines have become more consistently excellent since the change of ownership, and the chardonnay I feel has leapt into a higher gear, both the Premium and Estate versions.

In 2020, a syndicate based in Singapore purchased Bass Phillip from founder Phillip Jones, with renowned Burgundy winemaker Jean-Marie Fourrier in charge of winemaking and viticulture. Fourrier is a minor shareholder. Fourrier’s brother in law, Skip Francis, transitioned from the construction industry to become the vigneron in charge, day-to-day, with Fourrier in France overseeing it all. A new winery has been built and new vineyards planted.

Patrick Sullivan shares a vineyard just south of Warragul, formerly the Wild Dog Vineyard, with William Downie and Ryan Ponsford, of Entropy Wines. Patrick produces outstanding chardonnay and pinot noir from this and other pocket handkerchief Gippsland vineyards—but I’ll leave the rest to a separate article and video on Patrick to be published this week. Also, don’t miss our other videos of Bass Phillip and Dirty Three.

Other new, small winemakers doing good work in the region include Lisa and Justin Jenkins of Fleet Wines, Ryan Ponsford of Entropy and Xavier Goodridge whose brand is simply Xavier.

The Gjergja family of the Mornington Peninsula’s Port Phillip Estate and Kooyong have recently bought Bellvale, at Berrys Creek, South Gippsland, 15km north-east of Leongatha, a dry-grown vineyard established in 1999 on volcanic soil with 20 ha of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot gris. The founders, John and Athena Ellis, are retiring after producing some very smart wines over the years. PPE will take over from the 2025 vintage while the Ellises continue to sell their remaining stocks. Aside from Bass Phillip, this is the first substantial foray by an outside owner into Gippsland. Anything the Gjergjas do will be worth taking note of.

visitgippsland.com.au

Te Kairanga is the most established estate on the list. Te Kairanga Wines

The Wairarapa has long held a special place in Aotearoa’s wine world. With its cool climate, deep diurnal swings, persistent yield-reducing wind, and a culture that prizes small scale, site-specific wines, it’s a region where passion, patience, and terroir converge.

It is home to the unique Abel clone and some of New Zealand’s best wines, from established greats like Ata Rangi, Dry River, Palliser Estate, Escarpment and Martinborough Vineyard. In our most recent tastings, Jane Skilton and I found 12 producers who are doing exciting things. Not all are new names but each is worth seeking out and learning more about. These are Huntress, Halite, Home Fields, Nga Pari, Coney, Te Kairanga, Alexia, The Good Way, Grava, Poppies, Oraterra and Schubert. Below are the first six producers named and next week, we’ll explore the second half of the dozen.

Huntress

Jannine Rickards’ star has been on the ascendant for most of this decade, both as winemaker for Urlar Winery until recently, and now for her own label Huntress. Jannine is part of the Matiti Collective and is one of its two wāhine winemakers who whakapapa Māori (the other being Greywacke’s Richelle Tyney whose interview you can watch here)

She is crafting wines which exist comfortably in both the traditional wine sphere for structure and power, as well as in the New Wave arena with category-bending creative blends of chilled reds, skin ferments and pét nat. Her latest releases of Matiti Pet Nat Riesling 2024, Kuratea 2023 (the pinot gris-dominant version) and seriously structured Pawero Pinot Noir 2024 are all great examples of her work.

Halite

Haidee Johnson (and partner Ben Osborne) recently moved to the Wairarapa full-time rather than commuting from Wellington and she is doing very exciting things with her New Wave brand. In full disclosure, two of Halite’s most exciting current releases include sangiovese fruit from Osawa in Hawke’s Bay, grown by her friend, Amy Hopkinson-Styles of Halcyon Days.

The wines are minimal intervention yet pure and precise; with a very light hand in winemaking flavours. The Light Dry Red 2025 (pinot noir dominant), Ruby 2025 (50/50 sangiovese and pinot noir) and Sel de Terre 2025 (sauvignon blanc) are all worth your attention.

Home Fields

A brand with a fascinating legacy in the region, it includes land resulting from the breakup of the historic Waipipi Homestead Vineyard in Ōpaki, northern Wairarapa. The homestead itself dates to 1903 and was held by the Bunny family (whose name was given to the street across the Wellington Central Train Station) shortly thereafter. The current vineyards date to 1993 plantings and are now 30+ years old.

Owners Caroline and Brent Eddy pride themselves on their heritage vineyards, including the Home Fields, Waipipi and Moss Oaks (planted 1996) vineyards. The 2024 Chardonnay is a modern, sleek example but the 2024 Single Vineyard Pinot Noir is fantastic, capturing the special quality of the 2024 pinots and well worth seeking out.

The Home Fields vineyard and winery. Home Fields Wines Facebook

Ngā Pari

Formerly Cottier Estate, Ngā Pari (which translates to The Cliffs) sits on the Ruamāhanga River terraces further along Dakins Road from Urlar. Owned by Pete Mason and Karen Delehanty since 2016, the re-naming to te reo Māori reflects both their whakapapa to Ngāi Tahu to acknowledge the traditional name of the area for the local iwi.

Jon McNabb makes the wine here and the estate works collaboratively with the community in search of a sustainable future for wine in Gladstone. Both current releases of chardonnay and pinot noir (2021) display a classical build which will delight drinkers seeking a more traditional style of wine.

Coney

An established name. Tim and Margaret Coney founded the winery in 1996 when they planted the 6.5 ha of bare land. In 2022, it passed down to their daughter Lisa Coney and her husband Rusty. Lisa had been making the wines here for many years but the most recent spate of releases caught our eye at the Wairarapa Regional Tasting, in particular the Rabbit Chardonnay 2022, Que Cera Syrah 2021 and Ragtime Riesling 2023.

Te Kairanga

This is certainly the most established estate and one of the ‘larger’ wineries on the list, though still only owning between 100 and 130 ha of vineyards (not large in the big scheme of things).

Winemaker John Kavanagh has quietly been refining the style of wines here for years and the winery’s performance across the difficult 2023 vintage and the exuberant 2024s demonstrates how much finesse is now part of Te Kairanga wines. The John Martin flagship range is remarkable value for a region whose top wines are often twice the price of these, or more.

Tune in next week to learn about Alexia, The Good Way, Grava, Poppies, Oraterra and Schubert Wines!

Wines to showcase:
Huntress Pawero Pinot Noir 2024
Halite Ruby 2025
Home Fields Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2024
Nga Pari Chardonnay 2021
Coney Rabbit Chardonnay 2022
Te Kairanga John Martin Pinot Noir 2024

The Hawke’s Bay wines have clear distinctions discernible between the subregions. Wine NZ (Sacred Hill)

Syrah is holding steady at seventh place variety by planted area in Aotearoa New Zealand, or the third if just looking at red grape varieties (behind pinot noir and merlot).

In 2024, it amounted to 418 ha of vineyard, which is less than 1% of the national vineyard. This is a slight decrease from a peak of 440 ha in 2019, and is predicted to rise a tiny amount to 420 ha in 2026. Of the 418 ha, the overwhelming majority, 316.43 ha, is found in Hawke’s Bay with Auckland (mainly Waiheke) coming in a distant second with 48.92 ha. Northland’s 13.5 ha, Marlborough’s 12.5 ha, the Wairarapa’s 10.57 ha and North Canterbury’s 8.3 ha are the only other regions with more than 5 ha planted each, though almost every registered wine region in the country has at least some syrah vines. Waitaki is the notable exception.

Though there is syrah planted in almost every region, it would be a stretch to ascribe regional character to each one. The main regions which have developed stylistic regional markers are the top five: Hawke’s Bay, Auckland, Northland, Marlborough and Wairarapa. Northland is the warmest and produces the softest, ripest and fullest wines which express a darker fruit character, less overt spice and also softer acidity. Auckland is not a homogenous vignoble, with quite different wines being made on Waiheke Island than in Matakana.

The main centre for syrah is Waiheke, where several producers of Bordeaux blends also grow syrah. Here, there is a tendency towards quite extracted and oaky wines made in the same style as their blended reds. They often lean towards black fruit, black olive, earth and cocoa with chunky tannins (often bolstered by heavy oak) and there is a legacy of leather or gaminess in many of the wines.

The Hawke’s Bay wines are not uniform either, with clear distinctions discernible between the subregions. The coastal subregions of Te Awanga and Esk Valley have the sleekest tannins, restrained structure and tend to be more perfumed. Vineyards around the Havelock Hills and Tukituki Valley are not generally devoted to syrah but what is there is also generally more elegant than the warmer subregions. Speaking of which, Gimblett Gravels and Bridge Pa Triangle are largely regarded as the heartland of premium syrah in Hawke’s Bay, which is fitting as Alan Limmer rescued the variety from Te Kauwhata and planted it at Stonecroft in the gravels.

These riverbed and redmetal vineyards form the backbone of the region’s syrah reputation with the Gimblett Gravels providing more intense fruit characters, firmer tannins and longevity while the alluvial clays of Bridge Pa Triangle create more volume, perfume and weight with rounder structure and more earthy, savoury flavour rather than the fruit of the gravels.

Further inland towards the Mangatahi and Crownthorpe Terraces, the influence of the ocean decreases and the soil changes too (some areas even have limestone outcrops and argillite shales). Here, the balance of structure shifts from tannin to acidity as peppery and floral aromas of cooler-climate syrah start to dominate.

Comparing wine from the warmer parts of Hawke’s Bay to those from Waiheke Island (which are the two most likely origins of a bottle of New Zealand syrah), Hawke’s Bay tends towards more acid structure, fruit definition and elegance while Waiheke is broader, oakier, more muscular and extracted. Hawke’s Bay is also generally better value than Waiheke Island, not least because it can produce wine across a wider range of price bands.

Although not much is planted in the Wairarapa, there are notable wines which have a long-lived reputation, such as Dry River and Ata Rangi in Martinborough or Schubert and Johner in Gladstone. The wines here can vary quite widely in style depending on viticultural choices but in general, they are noticeably cooler-climate in expression than Hawke’s Bay, with more pepper, more violet and fewer olive flavours.

This trend kicks up a notch after crossing the straits into Marlborough. Although not renowned for its Syrah, Marlborough has pockets of very highly regarded vines across both the Wairau Valley and in the Southern Valleys.

There are specific vineyards such as the Fromm vineyard and the Clayvin vineyard which have a reputation for the variety. Here, purple fruit, floral flavours and a more savoury expression can be expected, although in some years that can tip over into dried herb. The interplay of sleek tannins with bright acidity keeps these wines from reaching full-bodied weight but they are very elegant and perfumed with the ability to cellar by virtue of their balance. In contrast the vineyards on the lower terraces along the Wairau River can produce very fruit-driven, almost pinot noir-like renditions of syrah which are enjoyable immediately upon release.

Vineyards in Tasmania’s Coal River Valley. Pooley Wines

So, you don’t like shiraz?!

But, what kind of shiraz don’t you like?

At my last count there were 40 regions in Australia that regularly produce excellent shiraz red wines. That includes the majority of the 65 gazetted GI (Geographical Indications) regions. The 65 doesn’t reflect the several distinct regions in Tasmania, as the entire state is counted as one GI. Tasmania produces fine shiraz in the Tamar Valley, Coal River Valley, the East Coast, and probably other places.

Most, if not all, Australian wine regions grow some shiraz.

To suppose that 40 regions all produce shiraz that tastes the same would be illogical. The Canberra District wine region’s slogan is “Wine is liquid geography”, which goes to the heart of the matter.

Geography deeply influences the way wine tastes. We could list the main natural factors as altitude, latitude, proximity to the ocean, geology and mesoclimate (temperature, insolation, rainfall, wind, etc), never mind the human-controlled factors such as viticultural methods and vine stock selection.

The variation in shiraz taste is more a factor of climate than soil or geology. To generalise, the cooler the climate the lighter the wine in colour, body and tannin. Cooler climate shiraz is more aromatic, with aromas of red fruits, pepper and other spices, while the hotter the climate the less spicy, and the more it’s about black fruits, chocolate/mocha and earthy, meaty savouriness. Warm climate shiraz also tends to be richer, sweeter in fruit flavour (not to be confused with residual sugar) and can carry a higher level of alcohol without losing its balance. The heartier the shiraz, the bolder the food flavours it can partner.

Despite the gloomy news regarding Australia’s over-supply of grapes, especially shiraz, the world loves shiraz and continues to drink and enjoy a great deal of it. The pleasure our shiraz gives people in all corners of the world map can be overlooked in the deluge of bad publicity. There is simply an imbalance of supply and demand. Meanwhile, you and I will continue to enjoy a glass—regularly.

Below I list my 25 top shiraz regions, in alphabetical order within their states.

New South Wales

• Canberra District
• Hunter Valley
• Hilltops
• Mudgee
• Orange

South Australia

• Adelaide Hills
• Barossa Valley
• Clare Valley
• Coonawarra
• Eden Valley
• Langhorne Creek
• McLaren Vale
• Wrattonbully

Victoria

• Beechworth
• Bendigo
• Geelong
• Goulburn Valley
• Grampians
• Heathcote
• Pyrenees
• Sunbury
• Yarra Valley

Western Australia

• Great Southern
• Margaret River

Tasmania

Coal River Valley, East Coast, Tamar Valley

The second tier: those 15 regions that are capable of excellent shiraz, but with either less consistency or shorter track-record.

• NSW- Gundagai
• SA – Padthaway, Southern Fleurieu, Southern Flinders Ranges
• VIC –Alpine Valleys, Glenrowan, King Valley, Mornington Peninsula, Rutherglen, Strathbogie Ranges
• WA – Geographe, Peel, Perth Hills, Swan District
• QLD – Granite Belt

Aerial view of the Carrick vineyards in Central Otago. Central Otago Winegrowers’ Association

The Central Otago region has exceeded 30% organic certified production. This is easily the highest proportion of any region in New Zealand.

This was announced by Carolyn Murray, general manager of Central Otago Winegrowers’ Association (COWA), on February 10.

“Central Otago has earned its international reputation for consistently delivering beyond what you’d expect from a region of our size,” Carolyn said.

“Reaching 30% organic certification of our vineyard area is a true testament to the passion and dedication of our growers. We’re privileged to work on some of the most extraordinary land in the world, and we hope wine lovers, commentators, and trade professionals will keep this care and commitment in mind with every drop that they enjoy.”

This is no small feat when one considers that many of the region’s vineyards are small: the average vineyard size in Central Otago is less than 9 ha, so it requires quite widespread adoption of organic farming to achieve that number.

In contrast, the 2023 numbers from Organic Winegrowers New Zealand (the latest figures available) place the national organic vineyard at 2,353 ha, or 6% of the total. This number includes the 331 ha of vineyard under conversion at the time. Central Otago contributes 628 ha to that total, or more than 25% of the national organic planted area.

For context, Central Otago vineyards represent about 5% of New Zealand’s total vineyard area. The region with the next highest organic adoption is the Wairarapa, which has 144 ha of organic vineyard, or 13% of the regional total. Marlborough actually has more vineyard area than Central Otago under organic farming, 1095 ha, but that is only about 4% of the region’s total planted area, due to the sheer scale of the region.

The Rippon vineyards in Wanaka. Central Otago Winegrowers’ Association

Central Otago’s pursuit of organics is not new: it started as early as 2009 when COWA set an internal target to achieve 20% organic vineyard area by 2020. They easily exceeded this target but reaching 23% in that time. Many of the region’s top wineries and vineyards are organic, including— notably—Felton Road, Rippon, Burn Cottage, Quartz Reef, Carrick, Amisfield, La Ferme de Sato, Domain Road, Doctor’s Flat, Calvert Vineyard, Domaine-Thomson, Judge Rock, Lowburn Ferry, Mount Edward, Nanny Goat, O’ Naturel Wines, Peregrine, Rock Ferry, Gibbston Valley and Two Paddocks. There are other organic vineyards in the area as well as wineries currently converting to organics or who farm some of their vineyards organically, such as Te Kano.

COWA has partnered with Lincoln University to better understand the challenges of achieving 50% of planted area under organic certification by 2030. While challenges like conversion costs and financial support remain, the study highlighted Central Otago’s vibrant peer network, openness to innovation and can-do attitude as the region’s strengths. The climate in Central Otago is generally drier than other New Zealand regions, which reduces the risk of humidity-related diseases. Some subregions in Cromwell and Alexandra are even considered semi-arid in a viticultural sense.

At the Spring Release tasting in November 2024, a small group of winemakers, led by Rippon’s Nick Mills, floated the idea of a shift in storytelling focus away from winemaking and accolades towards land stewardship and farming. Rosie Menzies, winemaker at Carrick, has since added that:

“Every sip of wine tells the story of the land it comes from. Every purchase—whether it’s a glass, bottle, or case—directly impacts a vineyard somewhere … We’d love to see consumers and wine professionals embrace land stewardship in their choices and reviews. It’s a fresh perspective on wine that could truly make a difference, reshaping how people value the connection between wine and the land.”

They threw down the gauntlet to our small group of writers and reviewers to highlight farming practices in our reviews and tasting notes.

Although that would not be possible for The Real Review due to the nature of our tastings (which are blind after all, so it wouldn’t be possible to talk about farming practices without knowing the identities of the wines we are tasting), it does remind us that in broader communication about wine—or perhaps in Cellar Talk articles—we can certainly highlight how these producers are looking after the land (or not).

A packed room at Grandi Langhe 2025. Grandi Langhe

Change is good, they say.

With this thought in mind, my Barolo and Barbaresco new releases report for this year is not drawn from the broader range, scattergun tasting afforded by Nebbiolo Prima but from a selection of tasting opportunities attended during the first few months of this year. As a result, my appraisals this year became more producer targeted while also giving me, very much in the case of the Barolo wines, a greater sense of the village or commune characteristics and, in particular, how individual vineyards performed. 

Amongst those tastings was the opportunity to attend the Grandi Langhe wine event held in Turin over two days in late January. This is the largest wine exhibition in the Piemonte region and one of the largest in Italy. The name is a little misleading because the show features a huge number of exhibitors from all the appellations in Piemonte. And for the first time this year, the organisers included a dedicated area for the press. Here, in relative calm, it was possible to sample a wide selection of the 2022 Barbaresco and 2021 Barolo wines (plus some Riserva wines) and, with a bit of pre-planning and clever use of the codes allocated to each bottle, taste each wine blind. 

So, what to make of these two vintages and the wines produced? Let’s look at the 2022 vintage first.

The growing season of 2022 was undoubtedly an extraordinary one, though the following 2023 season and the ongoing changes in the local climate suggest that it will not be unique in its characteristics. It was the second year in an almost three-year drought period. Published data shows that it was the second-driest season this century (after 2003) and, based on heat summation data, easily the hottest season on record.

Living here, I recall the unseasonal warmth of May and then the unrelenting heat from June to mid-September, when things eased a little, although October was also unseasonably warm, a problem for those ultra-traditional producers who don’t use temperature control in their cellars. Rainfall was minimal, sporadic and localised. One day of good rain at the very end of September would, in a normal season, have been perfectly timed. But because it was an early harvest, this day of rain was in the midst of the fruit picking and more a hindrance than a help. 

A tough vintage for the vines. Armed with this knowledge I launched into the tastings of the 2022 Barbaresco wines with some trepidation. But I was very pleasantly surprised. Here were wines that, in the main, had juicy and vibrant fruit, good acidity and plenty of immediate charm. In the main, they will not be long-term keepers but you can happily drink these wines while waiting for the 2019 and 2021 wines to hit their peak. They will also be wines suited to restaurant lists where immediate drinkability is required.

Talking to some of the producers post degustazione, most said that they were also pleasantly surprised by how the wines worked out. While younger vines struggled, and in some cases withered, established vineyards seemed to take the seasonal conditions in their stride, a testament to the adaptability of the nebbiolo grapevine. 

Barbaresco highlights include wines from Albino Rocca (Ronchi and Montersino cru wines), Ca’ del Baio, a producer that has in the past been too generous with their oak usage but in 2022 has struck the right balance, and a couple of wines from Barolo interlopers, the Massolino Barbaresco Albesani and the Oddero Barbaresco Gallina. Plus, two thoroughly charming wines from a new producer of which I know nothing—Bricco Ciarla. This winery warrants further investigation. 

My top 14 Barbaresco 2022 wines, scoring 94 points or more, can be found here.

Aerial view of Barolo town and vineyards. Wikimedia Commons

And now the Barolo wines, from a vintage that has had considerable hype. I included a 2021 season summary in last year’s report, but it bears re-reading here. 2021 was the start of the drought years and was an undoubtedly dry growing season. But the abundant snows of the winter preceding were a huge boon, ensuring there was an ample water supply in the soils. And while it was a warm year, it was nowhere near as hot as the subsequent two years. It was almost a perfect growing season.

As an aside, snow not only adds to the water reserves in a regulated manner, it helps cleanse the soil and, according to local growers, is important in vine health. Subsequent winters have seen small, intermittent falls of snow, lasting a day or two on the ground. The 2024 growing season was very wet but it also remained relatively warm, including through this latest winter and, for the first time in living memory according to the locals, there has been absolutely no snow. Is this a portent of future vintages?

Back to the wines. Do they live up to the hype and the promise of the 2021 season?

For me, undoubtedly yes! Indeed, these are among the best new release wines I have ever tasted from the Barolo appellation. The defining feature of many is the purity and depth of fruit expressed, and the wonderful floral scents accompanying, while also possessing the structure and balance for long-term cellaring. If the equally lauded 2019 vintage was known for the superb ripeness of tannins in the wines, those tannins, such an important component of great Barolo and Barbaresco, may be even more compelling in 2021.

Of 131 Barolo 2021 wines tasted up to the time of writing, I have scored 37 at 96 points or more, including 7 wines at 98 points, a great indication of the quality of the vintage. That list of wines (96 points or more) includes many of the best producers in the region at the top of their game—Burlotto, Vietti, Oddero, Brovia, Azelia, Paolo Scavino, Elvio Cogno—as well as outstanding producers such as Vajra, Ettore Germano, Giacomo Fenocchio and Poderi Luigi Einaudi, whose names have consistently appeared in my reports over the years. But there are other producers in that list with whom you, dear readers, may be less familiar—Giovanni Rosso, Cordero di Montezemolo, Carlo Revello, Mauro Molino, Cascina Sòt, Bovio and Livia Fontana. All worth seeking out. 

Excellent wines have come from all of the main villages in the appellation and if, in the past, I have been critical of wines from certain communes, there are no such qualms this year. The vintage has highlighted the characters of each commune, with an emphasis on the fruit purity, fragrance and finesse. Except, interestingly, for the wines from Monforte d’Alba where, based on my tastings, the commune’s trademark power and savoury intensity has been amplified.

More than this, however, it is a vintage where there is brilliantly clear definition between single vineyard sites, their traits shining through. Many of the most famous cru vineyards (or MGAs as they are titled here) have yielded superb wines—Cerretta and Lazzarito of Serralunga d’Alba, Monvigliero of Verduno, Rocche di Castiglione of Castiglione Falletto, Brunate of La Morra, Cannubi of the Barolo comune, and Bussia of Monforte d’Alba, all vineyard names represented more than once in that list of top wines. However, for me, the vineyard whose star shines brightest is Villero within the commune of Castiglione Falletto, a number of producers making wines of exceptional fruit depth, complexity and elegance. 

Last but by no means least, I have sampled a good selection of 2019 Riserva wines. With the emergence and growing importance of single vineyard MGA wines in Barolo, I had found myself wondering if the riserva label was becoming redundant. This selection of 2019 wines quickly dispelled those concerns with a number of beautiful wines presented. Indeed, one of those wines, the Oddero Poderi e Cantine Barolo Riserva DOCG Vignarionda 2019, flirted dangerously with perfection, getting as close to 99 points as I am likely to award a new release wine. Only the thought that it will continue to improve with time in the cellar stayed my hand.

There is an abundance of riches to be found in this year’s new release wines of Barolo and Barbaresco. The immediate appeal and charm of the 2022 Barbaresco wines will make for pleasurable drinking over the next few years. On the other hand, the exceptional quality of the 2021 Barolo wines in general cannot be overstated. And there is profound beauty in the best examples from the vintage. Time may tell if my appraisal for the vintage is too bullish, but I feel I am on pretty solid ground in my effusive praise. These wines will not be cheap, but for all serious wine lovers, it will be a “must buy” vintage.