The Palliser vineyards in the Wairarapa. NZ Wine

The Wairarapa has long been associated with pinot noir, with Martinborough in particular being the source of some of Aotearoa’s finest examples of the variety.

Across the years, chardonnay has also had its time in the sun, though arguably never to the same level of greatness as its red cousin. However, one of the stand-out styles from tastings in the past month has been sparkling wines from the Wairarapa, covering a range of styles and methods (see last week’s articles on sparkling wine methods for a primer). This should not come as a surprise, given the prevalence of pinot noir and chardonnay plantings in the region, but there are also some newer wines which explore outside the box with other varieties.

Palliser Estate will be no stranger to those who have dined and sipped in Te Whanganui a Tara/Wellington’s vibrant hospitality scene before. This is the regions’ most likely méthode traditionnelle to be poured in the city’s restaurants and wine bars and it absolutely deserves its reputation and long-held standing. The Griffin (featured prominently in the winery’s crest and logo) is the vintage sparkling flagbearer, accompanied by a vintage rosé called The Rose. Please note that before 2015, the Griffin was simply called Palliser Estate Méthode Traditionnelle Vintage.

Urlar, in Gladstone, is newer to the sparkling wine game but the 2019 is a very impressive example of a nicely matured, complex and rich méthode traditionnelle made in a classical style with layers of autolytic development. The winery also makes some easier-drinking sparkling wine, including a soft, vintage sparkling rosé.

Also from the northern Wairarapa are two different sparkling wine producers: Matahiwi in the Opaki and Gladstone areas, and Alexia which draws fruit from Manuka Flats Vineyard in West Taratahi. Matahiwi winemaker Miles Dineen uses méthode traditionnelle for the Holly range of wines, and the less labour-intensive tank method to produce the very affordable, friendly non-vintage brut rosé and blanc de blancs. Urban winery Alexia’s co-owners, married couple Jane Cooper and Lesley Reidy, go the other route with hand-disgorged and ultra-dry sparkling, including the stunning Alexia Blanc de Blancs Vintage and its softer partner, the non-vintage méthode traditionnelle rosé.

Speaking of rosé, Ata Rangi surprised everyone in 2023 when Helen Masters declassified all of her pinot noir single vineyards into the Crimson and in turn used the fruit which normally goes into that wine to produce a fabulous Charmat rosé.

Pétillant Naturel is another style to watch from the Wairarapa. Cambridge Road‘s Lance Redgwell has been making pet nats from various varieties for years, and it’s always a voyage of discovery tasting his latest range. He has recently focused his attention on two ancient Totara wood casks which are occupying his imagination (more on this another time, perhaps!).

The most exciting new pet nat to emerge from the region is Jannine Rickard’s Huntress Matiti Pétillant Naturel Riesling 2024, the first Hua Parakore Certified wine—organic wine made under a Māori framework of connecting tangata (people) and respecting whenua (land), awa (water) and oneone (soil). This pet nat is also the first wine released by the Matiti Collective, which encompasses six wāhine Māori (winemakers Jannine and Richelle Tyney, growers Jessica Hutchings and Mariana Te Rangi and kaupapa storyteller Jo Smith); and beverage and tea expert Timmy Smith. The riesling for this pet nat was grown in Martinborough by Alistair Gardner and Karla Falloon at their vineyard, Grava.

The Wairarapa might be a small region with limited production volumes, but the wines are worth seeking out and the sparkling wines emerging from this part of the Motu punch above their weight.