Arras celebrates 30th anniversary in style
Huon Hooke in Free for all Become a member to view this article
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The Sydney Symphony Orchestra entertains the room at Bennelong. House of Arras
The change of ownership of the House of Arras is one very good news story for an Australian wine industry that desperately needs some good news.
Chief winemaker since the inception of Arras 30 years ago, Ed Carr, reminded us that time is the essence with Arras. Time is central to the style.Arras celebrated its 30th anniversary recently with a party the likes of which reminded me of the way our wineries used to party but haven’t done since last century. Arras’s owner Handpicked Wines booked out the entire Bennelong restaurant. Ball gowns and dinner suits, poet and MC Rupert McCall reciting an original ode in homage to bubbles and Arras, a string quartet from the Sydney Symphony Orchestra playing music by Haydn and Dvorak, and of course a splendiferous Bennelong meal. All in the most iconic building in Australia, looking out across Circular Quay while rain hammered on the windows.
Chief winemaker since the inception of Arras 30 years ago, Ed Carr, reminded us that time is the essence with Arras. Time is central to the style.
We drank the 2017 vintages of Grand Vintage, Vintage Blanc de Blancs, and Vintage Rosé all from 2017, the new releases after between six and seven years maturing on their lees. Also the E.J. Carr Late Disgorged 2008 from magnums (14 years on lees), and finally the pièce de résistance, the Special Release E.J. Carr Late Disgorged 2006 (16 years on lees), dressed in superb new deep-green livery as the 30th anniversary celebration wine. This was the third iteration of this wine, as it has been released first as a Grand Vintage, then as an E.J. Carr Late Disgorged, and now in its ‘third plenitude’, said Carr, cheekily channelling Krug.
Winemaker Ed Carr delivers his speech. House Of Arras
“It’s a statement of what long-term ageing does for sparkling wine,” he said.
The new owner of the House of Arras is DMG, the drinks company of William Dong, a Chinese Australian resident in Sydney, whose main vinous gig is Handpicked Wines, which has vineyards in Mornington Peninsula and Yarra Valley. DMG distributes the world’s most valuable spirits brand, China’s Moutai baiju, so he has deep pockets, which will be useful in taking Arras to the wider world.
Late in the evening, William reluctantly made a speech, and was disarming in his praise for Carr and for the wine. “I’ve only been on this journey for two years, but you have been on it much longer,” he said. Handpicked bought Arras from Accolade Wines in October 2023.
He continued:
“The thing that brought me to Arras was the quality. To be honest I didn’t drink much sparkling wine before this, but now I drink Arras for breakfast, lunch and dinner!”
Loud and heartfelt applause.
House Of Arras
