The Real Review

Smart red blend

Aaron Brasher — Tue, 09 Dec 2025 05:00:49 +0000

Turkey Flat Butcher’s Block Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2023, Barossa Valley, AUD $27

Vineyards were first planted at Turkey Flat in 1847 and the Schulz family have been custodians of Turkey Flat since 1860. This wine is named in homage to the property’s origins as a 19^th century butcher shop, and displays archetypal Barossa and GSM attributes of fragrance, generosity and real drinkability. Great value as well.

Bright and youthful in the glass. Lifted aromas of dried flowers, cherry, blackcurrant, Asian spice and cola. Bright, blue fruited and with lovely presence and flow. There’s plenty of snap from the perky acidity and the tannins deliver shape, texture and presence. Smart drinking. (Screwcap)

Score: 92 ★★★★ – view original tasting note

Alcohol: 14.5%

Drink: now to 2035

Food: kassler chops and sauerkraut

Stockists: Turkey Flat Wines; Nicks Wine Merchants online; Regions Cellars, Dulwich and online – SA (AU)

Ranked: #7 of 19 2023 Grenache blends from Barossa Valley

Cellar bargain

Stuart Knox — Tue, 09 Dec 2025 04:00:38 +0000

Clairault Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2022, Margaret River, AUD $26

A final blend of 81.11% cabernet sauvignon, 12.14% merlot and 6.75% cabernet franc.

Deepest ruby red, purple notes at the rim. Blackberry, blood plums and petrichor aromas. Medium to full with ample ripe plum and blackberry fruit, layered over tobacco leaf and stoney minerals. Good length on the back of firm gravel tannins. It shows the power of the region and offers a bargain cellaring opportunity. (Screwcap)

Score: 90 ★★★★ – view original tasting note

Alcohol: 14.5%

Drink: now to 2037

Food: pork roast with fennel purée

Stockists: Clairault Wines; Old Bridge Cellars stores, Perth and online – WA (AU)

Ranked: #19 of 38 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon blends from Margaret River

Buy of the Week NZ

Stephen Wong MW — Tue, 09 Dec 2025 03:00:20 +0000

Holdaway Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2025, Marlborough, NZD $18

Remarkable value for money from the Holdaway vineyard in Dillon’s Point of Coastal Wairau—a subregion known for being able to retain classic flavours even at higher crop loads, something which worked in its favour in the 2025 vintage. Archetypal Marlborough sauvignon blanc in expression, this Appellation Marlborough Wine is tailored for immediate enjoyment.

Crunchy green apple and juicy gooseberry in a classic expression of Marlborough’s green and tangy style. There is length and textural interest provided by finely measured structure with fair palate weight before it gives way to light salinity on the finish. (Screwcap)

Score: 91 ★★★★ – view original tasting note

Alcohol: 12.5%

Drink: now to 2027

Food: spring asparagus risotto

Stockists: Lowlands Wines (Holdaway Estate); Blackmarket online (NZ)

Ranked: #26 of 71 2025 Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough

Awarded: Top Value

Top Value Wines of New Zealand

Buy of the Week AU

Huon Hooke — Tue, 09 Dec 2025 02:00:57 +0000

McHenry Hohnen Rocky Road Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2024, Margaret River, AUD $25

This is 78% sauvignon, 22% semillon. It’s undergone skin contact, fermentation on solids, and ageing in seasoned oak to bring complexity.

Light-medium yellow colour with a ripe passionfruit and mango, tropical fruit nose, very overt and in-your-face. A big flavoured, ripe and generous sauvignon blend that should win many fans. (Screwcap)

Score: 92 ★★★★ – view original tasting note

Alcohol: 13%

Drink: now to 2030

Food: poached john dory with two sauces made from green and red capsicums

Stockists: McHenry Hohnen wines

Ranked: #2 of 16 2024 Sauvignon Blanc blends from Margaret River

Awarded: Top Rank & Top Value

Top Value Wines of Australia

The Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show turns 25

Stephen Wong MW — Tue, 09 Dec 2025 01:00:20 +0000

For 25 years, the AAVWS has been a forum for wines that fall outside the mainstream. AAVWS

I spent the last week in tropical northern Victoria, specifically in Mildura, where I had the good fortune to be invited as international guest judge to the 25th Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show (AAVWS). Serendipitously, fellow contributor to The Real Review, Melissa Moore was also there to judge the show.

Over the years, the show has helped spread awareness and acceptance of varieties which are now very much a mainstay of Australian wine.

The AAVWS originated from the Sangiovese Awards initiated by Stefano de Pieri and Bruce Chalmers, along with the late Dr Rod Bonfiglioli, in 1999. The following year, it was called the Australian Italian Wine Show and in 2001, it was renamed the Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show. The Chalmers family, who run the most diverse vine nursery in Australia, are still heavily involved in the show and the movement, with both of Bruce’s daughters, Kim and Tennille Chalmers part of the organising team. In the earlier years, it used to include New Zealand wine, but that stopped a while ago and there hasn’t been anything to take up the torch for New Zealand since.

For 25 years, the AAVWS has been a forum for wines that fall outside the mainstream. It also incorporates social and educational events such as the post-show conference called Talk and Taste. This year’s edition included talks about Cava by Kate Laurie of Deviation Road, a viticulture panel led by Liz Riley of Vitibit and a panel on NoLo (no and low alcohol wines) led by chair of judges Leanne Altmann while showing technical wines from Pia Merrick (Australian Vintage), Nigel Sneyd MW and Aaron Milne (Edenvale).

Over the years, the show has helped spread awareness and acceptance of varieties which are now very much a mainstay of Australian wine, like pinot gris/grigio and glera/prosecco. Fiano is the latest success story, as was evident by the broad range of styles and high entry-numbers of the variety this year, many of which showed regional distinctions. The same is on the horizon for sangiovese, nero d’avola and montepulciano, all of which have developed distinctive Australian styles.

The 789 entries this year spanned 69 regions and 98 grape varieties, making the judging classes the most diverse I have ever seen in a wine show. This poses unique challenges for judges, particularly when it comes to benchmarking and the elucidation of quality. Leanne Altmann had made it clear that the European classics, though useful as signposts and for inspiration, should not restrict what is explored in Australia. The aim is not to make facsimiles of European wine but to grow and craft Australian wines using these varieties. This was more evident in some varieties than others, such as fiano and nero d’avola, both of which had developed their own personalities and flavour profiles.

The Rod Bonfiglioli Wine of Show 2025 went to Hahndorf Hill Gru Grüner Veltliner 2024, which also took Best White Wine and Best of the Rest. Best Red Wine Award and Best Italian Red went to Orbis Wines Nero d’Avola 2024. The Viticulturist Award went to Jeff Flint of Wangolina. The exciting Provenance class was of very high quality, with the award going to Crittenden’s Cri de Coeur Savagnin Sous Voile (they entered their 2020, 2013 and 2011).

The 789 entries this year spanned 69 regions and 98 grape varieties, making the judging classes the most diverse I have ever seen in a wine show.

Leanne Altmann awarded the Chief of Judges Wine to Watch award to the delicious Bloomfield Mencia 2024, and I gave my International Judge’s Wine to Watch award to Chalmers Mother Block Skin Contact 2025, a field blend from their nursery mother block. This year also saw the introduction of a new award to recognise Helen Healy for her amazing contributions as show manager, having supported the event since its inception. Helen started this year’s show as Mayor of Mildura and finished the show in a different role as Deputy Mayor (as an aside, it’s the first time I’ve ever been received at a wine show at the airport by a mayor!). The inaugural Helen Healy Award for Excellence went to Oliver’s Taranga Vineyards.

But that’s not all… to celebrate their 21st anniversary, the show commissioned wine writer Max Allen to write a book about the show and the movement which has grown around it, called Alternative Reality. The book, published in 2023, was recently awarded Best New Wine Book at the Australian Wine Communicator Awards 2025. Awards all round and a fitting way to celebrate the show’s first quarter century.

Wines to kick off the festive season

Melissa Moore — Mon, 08 Dec 2025 22:00:54 +0000

Champagne can be charming but why not look for Australian sparkling wines this year. Pexels

In the immortal lyrics of the 1983 Class Action disco anthem Weekend (Larry Levan mix specifically), the chorus – “Tonight it’s party time, it’s party time tonight” – sets the tone for long, balmy nights of celebration.

We’re seeing many interesting styles across the market, including sparkling wines either vinified in tank or made from varieties other than chardonnay and pinot.

As the sun dips and the summer heat soaks in, there’s a good chance you’ll be inviting people over, cranking the Sonos, and cracking open a few bottles of something fun to get the party started. And once the playlist is sorted (you can thank us later for the tune recommendation above), what to pop in the ice tub to keep everyone refreshed and show that you are actually the life and soul of the party? Here are a few local Aussie suggestions to keep the energy flowing once the sun goes down and the sequins come out.

Wines that sparkle throughout the night

Champagne can be charming but why not look for Australian sparkling wines this year for their complexity and incredible value? We’re seeing many interesting styles across the market, including sparkling wines either vinified in tank or made from varieties other than chardonnay and pinot; look to these for fresh citrus acidity balanced with creaminess from ageing on lees in tank, or spiced fruitcake opulence from sparkling shiraz. The ‘traditional method’ wines below have had many years ageing in their own bottles on lees to create complexity, texture and layers of flavour, and are some of the most impressive and special sparkling wines on the market today.

Fun styles

Traditional method

Disco whites

For something a little different, it’s worth diving into the new wave of vibrant alternative white varieties turning heads this summer: fiano, vermentino, albariño and assyrtiko offer fresh, zesty flavours that bring energy and personality to the glass, while textural chenin blanc and this saline, oyster-shell take on pinot grigio adds depth and intrigue. Wrap your lips around falanghina if you dare, with its aromas of apple, peach and white florals, aided by green-almond notes and chalky acidity—you’ll never look back! Some of these wines are all citrus and lift, while others carry a savoury, saline edge that keeps you coming back for another sip. Bright and vibrant, they’re the perfect way to keep things interesting as the night warms up.

Skinsy delights

Skin contact white wines are almost their own category in between white wine and rosé—a Goldilocks genre of whites that don’t taste like it, not quite rosé, but made like red wine but definitely aren’t red… they have their own mystique of deeper orange/amber colours (hence the moniker of orange or amber wines), often unfiltered and cloudy, super-aromatic with floral aromas and often featuring ginger plant and dried apricot notes, and almost always have refreshing grippy tannins completing a mouth-feel you’d usually associate with red wines. Intriguing and excellent with salty foods like cured cheeses and antipasti—coincidentally just like you’d serve at a fancy gatho!

Rosé all day (and night)

Rosé was made for warm nights: fresh, easy to drink and full of personality. Provence has driven the recent pale-hued revolution, so you’ll find delicate rose-coloured local versions made with grenache and cinsault bringing bright strawberry-and-cream fruit and crisp acidity, while nebbiolo-based rosés add subtle cherry aromas with delicate tannin and a hint of spice. Deeper mataro or shiraz-based styles offer darker fruit, spice and a subtle mineral edge. These wines are lively and quaffable rather than fruity or sweet, and have enough texture and lift to make them a serious drink. Modern deeper-coloured rosés tend to be more textural and complex rather than sweet, and with savoury spice are excellent matches for richer, meatier foods. Serve all well chilled and enjoy as the night gets going.

Light and bright reds for the ice bucket

Reds for warm nights are all about balance: structured enough to be interesting, yet fresh and lively enough to enjoy chilled. In Australia, red wines are often served too warm, so pop your bottles in the fridge for 20 minutes or dunk them into an ice bath for five to bring out their freshness. For parties look for fruit-focused styles with little (or no) oak, as heavy cedary tannins can feel raspy when cool.

Grenache (AKA garnacha or cannonau) bursts with cherry and red-berry juiciness, pinot noir brings bright strawberry and subtle spice, and gamay presents as raspberry conserve with gentle floral aromas and often aromatic whole-bunch stem notes. Australia is also producing a whole smorgasbord of other Euro-influenced red wines, whether plummy, spiced montepulciano or juicy cross-style shiraz-pinot blends. Full of flavour but lightly chilled, these reds are a great choice for sunset celebrations and backyard dance floors—approachable for a crowd, but still engaging for wine lovers.

Whatever the style, the key is fresh, vibrant and approachable wines that get people talking and glasses clinking.

Whatever the style, the key is fresh, vibrant and approachable wines that get people talking and glasses clinking. From crisp and fragrant whites to expressive rosés, sparkling bubbles that set the tone, adventurous skin-contact orange wines, and lively, fruit-forward reds, there’s plenty to explore this season. Don’t be afraid to try something new—whether it’s an unfamiliar grape or a bold stylistic twist, these wines bring energy, flavour and fun to any gathering. Choose wines that can be lightly chilled or popped straight into the ice tub when you arrive, so every pour hits its best note. With a mix like this on hand, all that’s left is to pop, pour and let the party take over. Cheers!

Taltarni treasure

Gabrielle Poy — Mon, 08 Dec 2025 05:00:39 +0000

Taltarni Old Vine Estate Shiraz 2022, Pyrenees, AUD $50

Taltarni is a treasured Victorian winery. I often hear Ben Portet talking about his father, Dominque Portet’s time spent here where the French man steered the winery to greatness. It’s been a while since I’ve tasted a Taltarni, and it was great to be reacquainted. A potential contender for my Christmas table, in a few years.

Dark chocolate, mulch, raspberry licorice, roasted fennel and Christmas cake spices mesmerise on the nose. On the palate, the heady mix of flavours continues while remaining buoyant and fresh. It’s nicely composed and holds great synergy between oak and fruit. Seamless and even, although it’s still quite young. This spicy shiraz deserves an office corner in your cellar…with views! (Screwcap)

Score: 96 ★★★★★ – view original tasting note

Alcohol: 14.5%

Ageing: now to 2035

Food: steak frites with béarnaise sauce

Stockists: Taltarni Wines

Ranked: #4 of 132 2022 Shiraz from Victoria

Awarded: Top Rank

Secret roussanne

Stuart Knox — Mon, 08 Dec 2025 04:00:46 +0000

Indigo Secret Village Roussanne 2023, Beechworth, AUD $45

Free run juice was transferred directly to barrel and fermented in French barriques and hogsheads: only 10% of the barrels were new.

Pale straw yellow in the glass. Honeysuckle and yellow peach aromatics. Medium weighted, peach and apricot, some subtle grapefruit pith texture and a lift of cumin spice at the edges. Good length, the fine acid keeps it flowing without edges and it glides with grace to the finish. (Screwcap)

Score: 92 ★★★★ – view original tasting note

Alcohol:12.5%

Drink: now to 2029

Food: pan-fried trevally with Mediterranean vegetables

Stockists: Indigo Vineyard; Cellars.com online (AU)

Wine of the Week NZ

Stephen Wong MW — Mon, 08 Dec 2025 03:00:47 +0000

Neudorf Home Block Moutere Chardonnay 2024, Nelson, NZD $95

A true New Zealand icon, this organic old-vine masterpiece grown by Stef Brockley and made by Todd Stevens comes from the original block by the winery. It is living testament to the vision of Judy and the late Tim Finn who believed from the start that the region’s clay would be instrumental to making great chardonnay. Everything has come together perfectly this year to create sheer sophisticated elegance.

A restrained and very young wine which currently shows cinnamon and spicy oak hiding reluctant notes of just-ripe stone-fruit, zesty citrus and crisp apple. No more than medium-bodied but very concentrated yet backward with evident, latent power tightly wound within the coils of grainy, stony phenolics and intense, saline acidity. The finish is very long, amplified by the chewy texture and stony intensity. Undeniable quality and fine-tuned finesse with a long life ahead.

Great wine which will develop slowly in bottle into a grand, elegantly complex chardonnay if cellared carefully. (Screwcap)

Score: 97 ★★★★★ – view original tasting note

Alcohol: 13.5%

Drink: 2026 to 2040

Food: grilled crayfish with a light butter sauce

Stockists: Neudorf Vineyards

Ranked: #1 of 54 2024 Chardonnay from New Zealand

Awarded: Top Rank

Wine Classification: 3 Merits

Wine of the Week AU

Huon Hooke — Mon, 08 Dec 2025 02:00:40 +0000

Utzinger Black Label Chardonnay 2024, Tasmania, AUD $60

Matthias Utzinger is a Swiss winemaker who is one of the most recent and most exciting new additions to the Tasmanian wine landscape. He married a local Tasmanian girl and set up shop on the west bank of the Tamar River in 2018. The Utzinger wines have made an immediate and profound impact.

Light, bright straw-yellow colour; smoky reductive aromas that clear quickly, rich and powerful fruit with sylish oak and matchstick characters combining in a complex bouquet. A full-bodied, intense palate with lovely fruit-sweetness, which is kept lively by bright lemony acidity, the finish cleansed with the help of a pronounced phenolic grip. Great drive and precision. A superb wine and will be even better with food. (Screwcap)

Score: 96 ★★★★★ – view original tasting note

Alcohol: 13.7%

Drink: now to 2039

Food: crayfish tartlets with yuzu

Stockists: Prince Wine Store, South Melbourne and online; WineSquare online (AU)

Ranked: #3 of 22 2024 Chardonnay from Tasmania

Awarded: Top Rank