Speaking of sauv sem
Stephen Wong MW in Cellar Talk Become a member to view this article
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Guide to Sauvignon Blanc & Semillon Feature Week
Spoke Brink ‘The Brink Vineyard’ Sauvignon Sémillon 2023, Marlborough NZD $33
Fascinatingly restrained yet complex wine. The fruit came from 2 ha of the oldest certified organic vineyard in Marlborough, which was on the ‘brink’ of being ripped up before it was stopped. This wine is a joint venture between The Coterie’s Ben Glover and Liam Steevenson MW. It underwent partial skin contact before it was whole-bunch pressed to wild co-ferment in old barriques and one new oak puncheon. The oak is nicely under control, giving it structure and spice with a distinctly green, earthy edge from the vintage.
Zingy and tart, this is edgy and New Wave, combining the apple and yellow plum flavours with savoury herb, cucumber and hay (from the sémillon?) all woven into the saline and grainy structure. Nicely dry and almost chewy on the finish, it sits further in the complex green and earthy spectrum than it does in fruitiness, with some near-term upside if kept. (Screwcap)
Score: 93 ★★★★ – view original tasting note
Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink: now to 2028
Food: Thai chicken noodle salad
Stockists: Normanby Fine Wines, Auckland and online (NZ)